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Kepasa Ukuleles are handmade solid-wood ukuleles. Kepasa
Ukuleles are built combining old and new building concepts.

    
Little Mac Concert Ukulele
Built for Jeff Combs

The Kepasa Little Mac is a concert size ukulele that is pushing the parameters towards being a small tenor. The size volume is the same as my standard concert, but the lower bout is increased to almost 8 1/2" and the waist comes in at 5 7/8". The overall length is 10 1/4" which is shorter than my standard concert by about half of an inch, but the modified body length allows the bridge to be in the sweetest spot of the body, and still allows a concert fingerboard scale of 15" to be used.

We're looking at just the top view of the rims, clamped in shape. The face is just a plywood jig that maintains the shape while it's being built. The kerfed lining is glued on and is waiting for the soundboard to be installed. The maple soundboard is gorgeous but is not shown here yet, as it is bare wood and is very white and reflective at this time.

Here's a side view of the bent rims. The water mark on the inside is from heat-pressing and will be sanded out.
From the last of the "private stash" of cocobolo rosewood, we see the blank fingerboard and bridge. The bridge is already slotted for the saddle and the fingerboard will be slotted for frets soon.
The soundboard is braced, the bridgeplate is glued on, and the reinforcement around the soundhole is glued in.
A few minutes later, most of the bracewood is shaved off. More will still be planed and sanded through the tapping process. Sculpting the braces changes the tone of the top and lightens the weight of the finished ukulele. Notice that in the previous photo, the soundhole reinforcement looks pretty thick. Once it's glued in place, and the binding ring is put in, most of the excess thickness is scraped and sanded down to practically nothing. The ring remains slightly thick at the very edge of the soundhole only.
This angle shows the shape of the braces a little better. Most of the length is scraped down to almost flat, but it still has structural value. The peaks offer more support in the area in front of the bridge. A small amount of bridge deflection is desirable.
The fingerboard in slotted and ready to glue on to the neck. (Actually, they are already glued together. Taking a photo at this time would just look like a bunch of clamps having a meeting...) The fingerboard still looks a little rough in this photo but was smooth and clean shortly after this photo.
The rims are just sitting on top of the soundboard in this picture. I think it's a shame that we don't get to see this view after the ukulele is completed!
Now the top is glued to the rims and clamped and taped. The top is still oversize and the shape will be trimmed to the rims after the glue has set. I wiped a little Naptha on the maple to temporarily darken it, to give a better view of the grain. It'll show better when we start getting some color on it. Nice view of the t-shell soundhole ring. The wood you see inside the soundhole is just the workboard. Lots of sidetrimming and shaping and kerfing and sanding to do before the back is nailed...er, I mean... glued... on.
Full frontal view. The little hole under the fingerboard area was for indexing the top on the rims while the glue was setting. It'll be covered by the fingerboard.
Here's the inside of the maple back after the braces were carved.
Still in rough carve mode, but the neck is starting to take shape.
Fingerboard is on the neck and the width is almost fully shaped, maybe another 1/8" of shaving to go to zone in on the exact dimensions.
The binding is shaved flush to the body. The body is sanded to 220 grit. For this photo, I wiped Naptha on one corner of the ukulele to illustrate what the mahogany and binding will look like after lacquering. The maple will be darkened in color before lacquering, but you can see how much just one wipe of Naptha deepens the maple color. And doesn't it just pop that lovely grain?
Before the sanding sealer and lacquer were applied, the body was sanded even finer to 400 grit. Some feel that this is unnecessary, but it only takes a few minutes to go from 220 to 320 to 400. You can feel the difference in your hands. The body now has about four thin coats of lacquer tinted with an amber tone. I think we're looking like the Naptha example above at this point. There will be a few more coats of lacquer, then it will be sanded smooth, sit for 24 hours, and then a few more coats of clear lacquer. Then we're on hold for two weeks with the body.
Just another closeup at a different angle.
The maple headplate is glued to the headstock and needs to be trimmed to size. At this point the final shape of the headstock will emerge. Is that still in my hands? You can see the zero nut and the gap for the nut here as well.
At some point of each build, I have to let go and say "It's done". And so it is.
The back is stunning with the full compliment of vertical and horizontal maple striping.
A little closer look of the front. Maple is not often used as an instrument top, but it actually works. Doesn't look bad, either.
There were several "firsts" for me in this build. The maple top and back coupled with mahogany sides, the zero fret, the Pegheds, and of course the shape. There was (and still is) a quick rough proto of this model before I began the official build, but the proto didn't have all the same appointments.

Here are four short sound samples of the Kepasa Little Mac concert ukulele.
Little Mac 1
Little Mac 2
Little Mac 3
Little Mac 4

Guess that's it for now. Until next time...
Thanks Jeff!


    

 
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